Archive for April, 2012

Purple insect-trapping ‘boxes’ designed to protect ash trees – The Tennessean


TribLocal

Purple insect-trapping 'boxes' designed to protect ash trees
The Tennessean
These are three-sided insect traps intended to monitor the progress of a wood-boring beetle that has killed tens of millions of ash trees in the eastern United States and Canada, according to the Tennessee Department of Agriculture.
Emerald Ash Borer Beetle Spreading Throughout MarylandCBS Local
Emerald Ash Borer Problem In LewistonWGRZ-TV
Muskego Fares Well With Emerald Ash BorerPatch.com

all 17 news articles »

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Bed bugs might have come from rented furniture

A Bakersfield family is creeped out. They have bed bugs crawling out of two couches, and that's after they got rid of a bed where the pests turned up a couple weeks ago. The rented all the furniture, and thought it would be bug-free.

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Bugged by the Cuyahoga County Council’s approach to pest control

Thanks to the Cuyahoga County Council, the management of at Cuyahoga County-owned buildings just became a whole lot more difficult, and, sadly, public employees will suffer the consequences (“County Council votes to limit use of chemical …

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Apr 15, 2012 – Don’t See The Spot Run

QUESTION:

I know you have covered the EPA definition of a “spot” area, but based on that have you found most regulatory interpretations to be flexible about the new pyrethroid label changes regarding spraying higher than 3 feet? Also, the general consensus that I have heard about interior ‘spot’ treatments is that it should be less than 15-20% of the area of the room and no larger than a 2×2 foot area. Does that mean it can be less than 15-20% of the room floor area, but still a bunch of 2×2 areas seperated by 1 foot spaces? A lot of my interior spraying is baseboard, behind stuff, around toilet bowl kind of spraying.
On a separate note, in your experience, how many customers/properties does the average work day consist of for a typical pest control company that does primarily maintenance and residential GHP? Thanks!


ANSWER:

The more I investigated the definition of a “spot” treatment the more I realized I had been giving bad information to people for years. I too have always preached that an application of “spot” treatments should cover no more than 20% of the overall surface, and in my mind’s eye I believe I read this somewhere. However, it turns out that EPA’s definitions stops with the requirement that a single “spot” is no greater than 2 square feet, and it does not address how much of the surface area can be covered by spots. However, I have seen a couple of product labels that DO state how much of the surface area can be covered by spots with THAT specific product, so it is vital that you read each product label carefully to be aware of these kinds of restrictions. 

Let’s examine your questions. First, it is confusing on that “2 square feet”, which would be 288 square inches in some configuration or another. You mention a spot of 2 ft x 2 ft, but that would actually be FOUR square feet, not two. A 1×2 spot would be 12 inches x 24 inches, or 288 square inches. Other dimensions that would accommodate this definition, then, could be 6 inches wide by 4 feet long, 4 inches wide by 6 feet long, or 2 inches wide by 12 feet long (2 inches times 144 inches equals our magic 288 square inches as a legal “spot”). Now, it is very important to carefully read each Label of the products you use to determine just how that Label allow you to apply the product. You may be allowed to do general surface treatments in certain areas of a labeled site, such as a restaurant, but be restricted to spot or crack and crevice treatments in the food areas. Or, in that food area you may even be restricted to just C&C, and to apply any of that insecticide to an exposed surface could be illegal. 
The current issue with the Pyrethroid labeling may bring much of this confusion into focus for us. It also is VERY important to consult with your own local regulatory agency to determine just how they interpret some of this. They may decide what overall percentage of a surface can be covered with spots, as EPA does allow states to be MORE restrictive than the federal regulations, but not LESS restrictive. How close together you are permitted to place those spots does not appear to be defined or stated by EPA, but we do need to use good common sense on this or we are liable to get our hands slapped with new regulations. If we feel sneaky and place our spots immediately adjacent to each other, managing to cover the entire surface with individual “spots”, that clearly is not in the spirit that EPA intended, so keeping some distance between spots is more responsible. 
On your second question regarding how many accounts to service each day, this depends greatly on what kinds of service you offer and the size and difficulty of each account. When I worked in pest control (we called it “control” back then) our company offered turf and ornamental treatments along with the structural, so each monthly or quarterly stop at a residence might involve treatments of shrubs, trees, and other ornamentals as well as treatments around the structure for ants, spiders, etc. This certainly increased the time per account, and for large properties with a lot of trees could GREATLY increase the time spent there (along with the monthly fee for doing all of it). You might have some accounts where you need to get through locked gates or past outside pets, and dealing with these issues adds to the time it takes to provide the needed service. Another issue is how well your route is set up. Are you working in a small geographic area each day or do they have you running all over town, driving 20 minutes or more between stops?
This is what makes it hard to tell you a good average, but 10 accounts per day could be realistic or you might get in 18 accounts if they are small and easy to get into. 

View past Ask Mr. Pest Control questions.

Apr 14, 2012 – ABC’s on Mice

QUESTION:

I am new to the pest control business and have been teaching myself and learning from other friendly pest control business owners about common household pest control (ants, roaches, etc.). I just got a call from a potential customer having mice problems. Since I don’t know much at all about mice (and can’t seem to find a master tech class about them online to help further) I decided to ask if you could provide some good starting tips for mouse control. I have yet to look at the house yet but they live out in an area with lots of open desert all
around them. They claim to have lots of mice in and around their home. They claim a few other pest companies have provided no results. Any help would be highly appreciated, and thank you!

ANSWER:

We do have Course #17 – It Was The Night Before Christmas – that covers The House Mouse, its biology and control, so this would be one good starting point. You also can take course 20 on Urban Rats, and much of the information on rat control will also pertain to mice. I also suggest you obtain a copy of the excellent book by Dr. Robert Corrigan – “Rodent Control – A Practical Guide for Pest Management Professionals”, as this is without a doubt the best and most thorough and most recent book on this topic for our industry, and it will give you tremendous insights to rat and mouse control. You should also consider subscribing to one or both of our major industry trade magazines, as these monthly journals will nearly always offer some new information on rodent management. 

It’s hard to summarize a topic as broad as rodent control, but let me give some highlights at least. Most important may be to begin with those IPM steps of habitat modification and exclusion. It is possible to completely prevent mice from entering residential structures by identifying and permanently closing all possible entry points, keeping in mind that a gap of only 1/4 inch could be enough to allow a mouse to squeeze through. It probably is NOT possible to completely exclude mice from entering the exterior property, so your efforts there should be to remove all the attractions that bring them onto that property. These are going to be, most importantly, food and harborage. Mice can live without a drink of water, but they must eat and they must hide all day, so eliminating these possibilities as much as possible will dramatically reduce the number of mice living around the outside of the structure. 
On the interior it is best to avoid the use of toxic bait if possible. Baiting indoors always increases the chance that a child or pet could access the bait, even if you believe it is placed in inaccessible places or in tamper resistant stations. Trapping and immediate removal of trapped rodents is preferable if you have normal infestations, and using LOTS of trap placements if needed. On the interior you also need to focus on removal of food resources as well as disruption of normal harborage the mice are using. When you disturb the normal routine of rats and mice you make them uncomfortable, and when the rodent is now looking for new food and harborage resources it means they are moving around more, investigating your traps or bait more, and you are more likely to capture them. 
Identify where they are hiding and where their travel routes are, based on signs such as feces, urine, damage, etc., and place your traps and stations directly along these pathways. Place traps and stations directly against the vertical surfaces to take advantage of the rodents’ instinct to stay against walls and other vertical surfaces. Check traps each day if at all possible to remove trapped rodents or reset triggered traps. Mice are curious, and they may quickly investigate the things you put down there for them, so you want to remove them before flies find them or they begin to decay and create foul odors. These are two of the reasons for avoiding baiting indoors, which could lead to dead rodents where you cannot remove them. 
Find out what the expectations are of these customers. It could be that they believe they should have zero mice on their property, and this may be unrealistic. Find out what level of cooperation they gave those previous companies in removing pet foods and other food resources outdoors, or in doing exclusion if they said they would take care of that part, or in eliminating piles of brush and other materials laying on the ground. You should start with a fresh slate on each of these accounts, and with a WRITTEN inspection form evaluate the property inside and out, noting all of the Contributing Conditions that need to be corrected, assigning those to specific people with a specific timetable for getting them done, and check on this on each visit. 

View past Ask Mr. Pest Control questions.

Apr 13, 2012 – Pyrethroid Granule Alternatives

QUESTION:

Recently, you answered a question regarding Pyrethroid Changes. In the message you stated the following: “An important addition to the labels of ALL pyrethroid products and formulations is the statement “do not make applications during rain”. This is important because the use of granules during rainfall or if rainfall was imminent has been a standard practice. This will no longer be permitted and very few alternate products are available for this.”
My question is this: Can you recommend an alternate product or procedure we can follow?


ANSWER:

This is always a really touchy thing for me to do, because manufacturers tend to carefully read what we say about alternative products, and if I offer the names of some products but neglect to mention others I get spoken to. So, I will avoid “recommending” alternatives, but I will mention a name or two. 

It is a FACT that ALL synthetic pyrethroid pesticides are going to be required to have the same new wording on their labels, probably all within the year 2012. That new labeling must be used on products now being packaged by manufacturers, so if they package product today and we buy that new material from them it is going to have the new labeling in place. YOU, the PMP, are required to follow the label that is on the package that you purchase or already own, so there is going to be some amount of “old” labeled material in the system for awhile. Some manufacturers may have produced an abundance of inventory prior to the requirement for the new labeling, so they may be able to offer old-labeled material for quite awhile into this year. But, ultimately all pyrethroids are going to have the statement to not apply during rainfall on their labels. 
There appears to be only a couple of alternative granular insecticides you might want to check on. By alternative I mean a contact product rather than a bait. One of these is Essentria G Granular Insecticide, which is replacing the old ExoExempt G Granules. It’s active ingredients are Thyme and Clove oils and it has very broad and general labeling for exterior uses without any statements about use during rainfall. These actives are contact insecticides.
A second alternative may be from Rockwell Labs, and this is their Intice 10 Perimeter Bait. The active ingredient in this bait is the stomach poison Boric Acid, but according to the manufacturer it somehow is providing good control of many perimeter insect pests other than just those that will eat the bait. I pass this information along only as coming from the manufacturer. 

View past Ask Mr. Pest Control questions.

Apr 16, 2012 – Bed Bug Blood Bait?

QUESTION:

Are baits possible for bed bugs? They have piercing-sucking mouthparts. I was thinking of perhaps a type of bait station with artificial blood and attractant built into it, such as a poison with a transfer effect. I would think it would need some type of artificial skin or membrane to use their type of mouthparts on.

ANSWER:

Never say never when it comes to pest management, and I am confident that universities and manufacturers are currently evaluating the potential to create an effective bait for these difficult pests. You are correct that the only thing they feed on is blood, so it would have to be some concoction that either is actual blood or so closely resembles blood that the bugs are willing to ingest it. I really don’t know all of the possible stumbling blocks in producing such a thing, but let’s give it a whirl. 

Putting live blood into human habitations might very well have a ton of legal implications, so that might be one consideration. Keeping the blood fresh and warm definitely would be another, as blood wants to clot quickly and to spoil, so shelf life is going to be a huge factor. You might have to buy it and use it immediately, and now the cost factor is increasing. Add to that the need to simulate animal skin so that the bugs would not be repelled by the whole thing. It could be that an artificial “blood” would be the better way to go. 
I’m not sure about the transfer effect, and we might be more likely to achieve this from the use of non-repellent insecticides that are contacted by the bugs. If we could develop an active ingredient that is as effective on bed bugs as, for example, fipronil is on ants, it might be present on the cuticle of the bugs in high enough concentrations to be passed onto other bugs when they crowd into the same hiding places. However, bed bugs are not going to have the grooming and other social behaviors of ants and termites that are instrumental in helping a transfer of the active ingredient from one individual to another. 
The sudden reappearance of the Common Bed Bug caught everyone by surprise, and developing new technologies to take the place of our less than efficient insecticides takes a long time, so hopefully we will have some amazing surprises on the horizon. Look for the market release of the new monitoring stations from FMC, called the Verifi monitors, as one of these new and unique products for our industry. 

View past Ask Mr. Pest Control questions.

Iconic big blue bug brings name change

After 32 years of surveying Interstate 95 from his perch atop a business, Rhode Island’s big blue bug is getting a promotion — and a makeover to go with it. PROVIDENCE, R.I. — After 32 years of surveying Interstate 95 from his …

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Abandoned orchards must be monitored for

Growers in northern San Diego County are being told to monitor their citrus and avocado groves for , even if they’ve abandoned the trees because of soaring water costs. The North County Times ( http://bit.ly/HvkFF4) says the county’s …

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Killer bees arrive in Tennessee

Mike Studer is going to kick a lot of beehives in the coming days and, if he’s lucky, only a few hundred will attack him. If the whole hive — up to 100,000 bees — retaliates, he’ll have found another group of Africanized bees that recently reached Tennessee.

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