Archive for July, 2012

Jul 16, 2012 – Live and Let Live?

QUESTION:

I have a customer who has a serious cicada killer problem. He has a very thick lawn that he waters to prevent them on his property. The neighbor to his left does not water his lawn and has a much larger number of the wasps and the property to the right has no vegetation and has many wasps as well digging into the sides of the hill. It also has a large drainage pit for the development. I’m out of ideas as to how to help him. I think he is doing everything he can but is there anything else I can tell him to help the situation? Do Purple Martins eat cicada’s? Are their any other natural predators that would be of help to him? If you have any advice that would be greatly appreciated.

ANSWER:

The huge Cicada Killer wasps are common in the eastern U.S. but do not live in the western states, so I personally have never had experience with them. We do have many other kinds of solitary, predatory wasps that capture other insects, create burrows and chambers in the soil, and provide that captured insect as food for their developing larvae, but none nearly the size of the cicada killers. A couple of things really are important here. The first is the extraordinary benefit that all of these solitary predator wasps provide to us with their feeding on cicadas, caterpillars, crickets, and other insects that truly are the pest problems in the garden. The second is the fact that these wasps do not have social structures and therefore do not have the instinct to rush at someone to sting them when they approach a colony of the wasps. There are no colonies of cicada killers, only large numbers of them working independently. 

Now, a female cicada killer is quite capable of inflicting a painful sting, but this would happen only if that  wasp was directly threatened, such as captured in a hand or confined within clothing, and every reputable resource on these wasps states that stings from them are quite rare. It appears that the benefit far outweighs the threat, and the ideal thing would be for these customers to begin to appreciate the work the wasps do, including that free aeration of the turf, and at some level start to enjoy having them around. All that being said I also recognize that the digging of the females can make a pretty large mess of a nice lawn, and when hundreds of them are working on a single turf area it may become intolerable. 
The female wasp looks for soil that is the right consistency to allow her to dig that tunnel and create the side chambers for her offspring to develop in. Sand would collapse too quickly, but other soils may hold up just right. Watering a lawn heavily is probably not enough water to discourage them, and anecdotes about using water to keep the wasps away tell us that it is done by actually flooding each individual burrow so completely that the female wasps finally decide to go somewhere else. This means going to each burrow opening daily and using the garden hose to fill that burrow with water until the wasps no longer are using that area. 
Every other treatment for these wasps also seems to be hole-by-hole, and area wide applications of insecticides do not seem to be particularly effective. Some level of kill of the adult wasps may be possible by spraying a contact insecticide over the turf, but this will kill only a few and others will continue to work and the area will continue to attract them. This is going to be a very seasonal phenomenon, as the adults are only working in July and August, but that still is a long time. Insecticide applications are effective only when applied directly into the burrow opening, and this does appear to be successful, if only for this one season. Various pyrethroids in either dust or liquid spray form can be poured or dusted in and this will kill the working female wasp. Even “home” remedies by people who think they are using non-pesticides rely on treating each hole individually. 
Covering bare soils with gravel or garden mesh will discourage the wasps from digging. There even are many university websites that suggest that a tennis racket will quickly “dispatch” the wasp, but now you could be aggravating that wasp enough to elicit a sting if you miss with the first swing. Tolerance and appreciation are always preached by wasp experts. From what I can read Purple Martins may very well eat cicada killers, as they feed on nearly any kind of insect available, but predators like birds do sometimes figure out that large wasps can sting them and may avoid the risk. It is rare for any predatory bird or mammal to actually eliminate an insect problem from an area, so if they do eat these wasps they are not going to eat them all. 

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Invasive found in Vermont

POWNAL — The hemlock woolly adelgid, an invasive insect from Asia that feeds on the sap of hemlock trees, has been found in Pownal, the first time it’s been found in Bennington County, according to the Vermont Agency of Natural Resources.

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Shops supplying pest-control chemicals under cop scanner – Indian Express

Shops supplying pestcontrol chemicals under cop scanner
Indian Express
Shops supplying pestcontrol chemicals under cop scanner – The Versova police, probing the mysterious death of siblings Rehab and Rameez Chougale within a span of 24 hours after pe.
Shop owner held for sale of pest control chemicalsHindustan Times

all 2 news articles »

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Brown recluse spiders swarm Brentwood apartment – KCTV Kansas City

Brown recluse spiders swarm Brentwood apartment
KCTV Kansas City
In the past couple of weeks alone, spider traps around her apartment have collected about 10 of the poisonous pests. But the spiders have been showing up since April. "I was leaning over my sink, and I grabbed my towel. And there was just this

and more »

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New Restrictions on Pest Control Operators Will Help Prevent Pesticide Pollution – San Francisco Chronicle (blog)

New Restrictions on Pest Control Operators Will Help Prevent Pesticide Pollution
San Francisco Chronicle (blog)
The following is a press release from the BASMAA's (Bay Area Stormwater Management Agencies' Association) regarding new statewide pesticide regulations that take effect this week. The new regulations put limits on exterior spraying in order to reduce

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Residents cope with massive Mayfly hatch – KARE


KARE

Residents cope with massive Mayfly hatch
KARE
"But the last thing we'd expect would be a thick layer of insects on the roadway." One driver spun out on the bridge, due to the slick coating of dead mayflies, and careened across the centerline of the two-lane, undivided roadway into an oncoming car.
Mayfly madness makes more than its usual mayhem in HastingsMinneapolis Star Tribune
Mayflies caused head-on crash on Highway 61 bridge in HastingsHastings Star Gazette
Minneapolis News and Weather KMSP FOX 9Crews plow bug sludge after FOX 9 News
KAALtv.com –CBS Local
all 27 news articles »

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Mutant mosquito experiment in Florida Keys worrisome – Examiner.com


Examiner.com

Mutant mosquito experiment in Florida Keys worrisome
Examiner.com
Monday, WebProNews reported on a UK-based company's intentions to release a species of mosquito that could possibly shorten the lifespan of newly-hatched insects. In doing so, it will lessen the population.In turn, the number of Dengue fever cases is
Mutant Mosquitoes Florida: Residents Oppose Being 'Lab Rats' in Key West International Business Times
Key West Resident: We Won't Be 'Lab Rats' for Florida Mutant Mosquitoes PlanChristian Post
Key West residents oppose plan to release GM mosquitoes to fight dengue feverVaccine News Daily (blog)
RT –Gather.com –CollegeNews
all 27 news articles »

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Jul 17, 2012 – Batty Buildings

QUESTION:

I have an account with bats in a small metal building. I have watched them leave so I know where to block access. Do you have any helpful hints on installing screen or netting to exclude them?

ANSWER:

In my mind’s eye a metal building can be a pretty porous structure, so even though you know where the bats CURRENTLY are entering and leaving it would be wise to take a pair of binoculars and walk the entire perimeter to see where else they may be able to get in. There also will often be multiple entry points, and you may not see this until you visit the site at early evening when the bats are leaving and find a way to observe all sides of the structure, perhaps with the help of some friends. Even if you block the preferred opening bats will attempt to find another way into this chosen roosting site if one is available, so all openings need to be permanently closed. 

Some people have better results with evicting bats if they offer the bats an alternative outside but a little away from the structure, and bat “houses” are popular for this. Given the benefits of bats and their current plight with “white nose syndrome” we should do what we can to preserve the bats and allow them to continue to live in an area……….just not in our buildings. Once you manage to get these bats out and keep them out it would be good customer service to inspect the area where they have been living to see what kind of mess they are leaving behind. Their feces and urine are not healthy materials to leave in a structure inhabited by people, and some cleanup and sanitation may be needed. 
This time of year one little concern you may have is that these bats may be breeding inside this structure too, and this could continue through the warm months. If you exclude the adult bats at this time you may be causing their young to be left behind to die, and this is not a good thing. So, if you can determine that young bats that cannot leave on their own are within this structure it would be advisable to hold off on the exclusion until early fall, or early September at the earliest. Repelling them from the interior with ultrasonic devices is completely ineffective and the use of moth balls is generally illegal, not to mention that you would have to use so much of the moth balls that it would create an awful odor for human inhabitants. The permanent solution is allowing them to leave willingly but not return. 
Allowing bats to leave is often done with a one-way flap or sleeve that allows the bats to push their way out through that entry hole and past or through the material you have over it, but prohibit them from getting back through that material to re-enter. Not all bats leave every night, so whatever you place over their openings should be left there for at least 7 days. Bird netting of fine mesh can be used as a large flap over the opening that they can push aside to exit but cannot lift for re-entry, and hung at least 2 feet below the opening. A tube can be made from some material and also hung over that opening. Univar sells several configurations of “Bat Cones” that also work well, offering a cone that narrows toward the end so that the bats are unable to work their way back through the ultimate opening. 

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Jul 14, 2012 – Readers’ Digest Rodenticides

QUESTION:

Could you tell me a little about rodenticides? A history of the transition from multiple dose to single dose, acute vs. anticoagulants, their toxicity to humans and the different classes of them?


ANSWER:

This is a pretty wide topic, so this will be a very abbreviated history as I can remember it. Certainly the first toxicants used to kill pest rodents were natural substances that were available in plants or minerals, such as arsenic (a mineral), cyanide (from a family of salts but also present in many plants), and strychnine (from the seeds of a tree). These are all extremely acute poisons that killed any animal that ate the bait laced with them, and bait avoidance due to eating sub-lethal doses was a possible concern along with the deaths of too many unintended animals. Other early active ingredients included Red Squill, Thallium sulfate, ANTU, and 1080, and each had its benefits and its problems. Another early product was zinc phosphide, and of course this and strychnine are still used in a limited number of rodent baits today. 

In the 1940’s anticoagulants were more or less discovered by accident, when “dicoumarin” was isolated as a chemical responsible for internal bleeding in livestock that ate spoiled clover hay. The potential for using this “anti-coagulant” as an animal toxin was then investigated by the Wisconsin Alumni Research Foundation, and eventually WARFarin (named after that group) was created as our first rodenticide anticoagulant. The benefits of anticoagulants include the fact that the active ingredient has essentially no foul taste that would cause bait avoidance, has a delayed reaction so that the rodent will eat more bait before effects begin to take place, thus avoiding bait shyness, and there is an “antidote” that can overcome the effect of the toxin. This is Vitamin K, and I prefer the word “treatment” to “antidote” since an animal may need to continue to receive Vitamin K treatments until the toxin is finally flushed from its system, which can take awhile for some of the anticoagulants. 
The anticoagulants actually are still highly toxic substances, but they are so diluted with food ingredients, taking the actual bait formulations down to an a.i. of less than 1% toxin, that it reduces the risk to non-targeted animals. As animals will eventually do, resistance began to develop to these early “multiple feeding” anticoagulants, which also include diphacinone, chlorophacinone, indandione, and others, and efforts began to find new anticoagulants that offered the same benefits on no bait shyness or avoidance, but which could get a lethal dose into the rodent with a single feeding, and difenacoum and brodifacoum, still in a number of our current rodent baits, were the first two Single Feeding anticoagulants to be developed. From these bromadiolone and difethialone were developed, also current actives in our rodent baits. These are often referred to as the “Second Generation” active ingredients and their oral toxicity generally is much higher than the First Generation actives, so they may be present in the finished baits at even lower concentrations. 
An effort continues to develop rodent baits that are fairly specific to rodents, or which offer some other safety features that reduce the chances for non-targeted animal poisoning or secondary poisoning, and one of these features is found in the “stop feed” actives such as bromethalin. According to manufacturers of the products with this a.i. a rodent loses its appetite shortly after consuming enough bait to kill it, and thus it does not fatten up on more bait and toxicant than is needed, hopefully reducing the chance for secondary poisoning when another animal eats that rodent. Bromethalin also is not an anticoagulant, and thus bypasses any resistance that may be developing in rodents to the anticoagulants. Instead, it acts to stop the production of energy packets (ATP) at the cellular level, essentially causing the rodent to die as its organs fail due to lack of nerve activity. 
Another active that followed the anticoagulants and which is still in our arsenal today is cholecalciferol. This a.i. causes the release of stores of calcium into the blood and results in heart failure. This a.i. and bromethalin are also considered to be “chronic” toxins, as are all of the anticoagulants, in that the effect in the rodent takes time to progress. The safety feature here is that medical treatment can be given when a child or a pet eats one of the baits, whereas the “acute” toxins like strychnine and zinc phosphide may not offer that time delay. 
I’ve probably forgotten something of value here, but hopefully this is a decent synopsis of where we were and where we are with rodent baits. 

View past Ask Mr. Pest Control questions.

Jul 15, 2012 – Dead Rodent Disposal

QUESTION:

What is the correct way to dispose of dead rats?
Thank you.

ANSWER:

Well, this is actually a really good question, and as usual my answer is not going to be a short one. There are just too many variables here not to cover some of them. The first is that gathering and disposing of dead or dying rodents that are the result of your rodent control work is often MANDATORY – you don’t have a choice and must do it because most rodent bait Labels state that you are to do so. If it is on the label then it is the law, and leaving dead rodents behind would be a violation, not to mention must bad customer service. This is one reason that baiting indoors has drawbacks, as rodents very likely will die in an inaccessible place (wall void, far reaches of the attic) and be there for flies to breed in and for odors to develop from. Dead and dying rodents outdoors may be available for other animals to eat, leading to the possibility that secondary poisoning could occur, however unlikely. 

Rodents are also often covered with parasites such as lice, fleas, or ticks, and once the rodent dies these arthropods do not, and will leave the host animal in search of a new host for their blood meals. Removing dead rodents quickly also removes these important parasites, but now we move into the second phase of this answer and that is personal protection. You should always wear washable or disposable gloves when handling rodents to avoid getting their problems onto your skin. When handling snap traps with rodent blood and other remains on it you really would prefer not to touch that material with your bare skin. When working in an area where rodent waste materials are present you also should have long sleeves and a respirator to avoid any skin contact or inhalation of the dust that may come off that surface. A lot of nasty things grow in and on rodent feces and urine. 
Phase 3 of my answer is with respect to the actual disposal of a carcass, and of course we have to keep in mind that animal “cruelty” is a huge consideration with many people. If you have a rodent that is still alive but captured on a glue trap or snap trap it probably should be dispatched / euthanized / humanely killed before you wrap it up and toss it in the garbage. Whether we all agree or not we should have some concern for the suffering of any animal and kill it as quickly as possible when killing is needed. A look at a number of responsible sites, such as university fact sheets on rodent control, placing a dead rat or mouse within a plastic bag that can be sealed closed and thrown in a dumpster that is headed to the local landfill seems to be an acceptable method for disposal. But, you never know what kinds of local ordinances may exist in a community, so it would pay to investigate this before you start any action like this. You may be in a city or county that requires that all dead rodents be buried or taken to the local shelter for incineration. 
Burying dead rodents is also often recommended, but one concern here is that other animals may dig up that rodent and either eat it or leave it exposed on the ground. To minimize this possibility you may want to bury that animal at least 2 feet deep, and now we are talking about a lot of work, and you either aren’t going to go to that much trouble or you are going to accumulate a lot of dead rodents so you can do them all at once, neither of which is a good idea. Enclosing in a sealed plastic bag and disposing of in a trash can or dumpster that will be emptied for removal to a sanitary landfill very soon is the best idea if there are no local taboos against it. Generally speaking, dead rodents and their waste materials are NOT considered to be “toxic” or hazardous wastes. 

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