Apr 29, 2011 – One Last Mouse
QUESTION:
I am having a hard time catching the one last mouse. It stays away from glue boards and snap traps, and I am not allowed to use any bait because the owners have a dog. Any ideas?
ANSWER:
Since this is a residence at least you have a more manageable situation than you would in a larger commercial setting. One thing that is very much needed is to ensure the complete cooperation of the customers in removing ALL other food resources that the mouse has to be finding. This could even be dog food left in the bowl all the time, or dog foods stored in bags where the mice can get to it. If so, then the food should be prepared for the dog, the dog allowed to eat, and the food immediately removed and stored in a mouse-proof container until you are confident there are no more mice in this home. Look at all other food resources as well, such as packaged foods in the cupboards and other storage areas, and all of these must be placed within some sealed containers that will prevent the mice from easily getting to it. This could be thick plastic bins that are easily purchased at stores and which have snap-on lids. If food continues to be left available for the mice they are much more likely to continue to ignore your traps.
Also concentrate heavily on EXCLUSION, and do a careful evaluation of the exterior to determine just how these mice managed to get into this home. Any and all openings (over 1/4 inch wide) must be permanently closed to prevent more mice from entering in the future. It doesn't pay to catch the mice indoors with a lot of hard work just to allow new ones to enter later.
Once you have minimized or removed all alternative foods you can bait your traps with tempting morsels that will be likely to draw the mice to the traps, whether snap traps or glue traps. There are some commercial attractants that seem to be very attractive to mice, or you can use peanut butter, dried fruit, bits of chocolate, nuts, bacon bits, etc. Tie these to the snap trap trigger so the mouse has to tug on it to try to remove it. Tie the traps to something nearby so it cannot be dragged away if the mouse is caught only by a foot. Use LOTS of traps and place them immediately against walls and other likely runways. You might go in with a UV flashlight and turn the lights off inside so you can scan the area to see if you can spot the runways - urine will fluoresce under UV light. The mice are creatures of habit, and will use favored runways repeatedly.
Clean up all clutter. Mice hate changes, and when you disturb the area they are comfortable with it causes them to move around more, increasing the chances of an encounter with your traps. I have no argument with not using bait inside the home, particularly when it is possibly only one or a few mice. Trapping is faster and more certain that you have gotten the rascals, and traps should be checked within a few days at the most.
I am having a hard time catching the one last mouse. It stays away from glue boards and snap traps, and I am not allowed to use any bait because the owners have a dog. Any ideas?
ANSWER:
Since this is a residence at least you have a more manageable situation than you would in a larger commercial setting. One thing that is very much needed is to ensure the complete cooperation of the customers in removing ALL other food resources that the mouse has to be finding. This could even be dog food left in the bowl all the time, or dog foods stored in bags where the mice can get to it. If so, then the food should be prepared for the dog, the dog allowed to eat, and the food immediately removed and stored in a mouse-proof container until you are confident there are no more mice in this home. Look at all other food resources as well, such as packaged foods in the cupboards and other storage areas, and all of these must be placed within some sealed containers that will prevent the mice from easily getting to it. This could be thick plastic bins that are easily purchased at stores and which have snap-on lids. If food continues to be left available for the mice they are much more likely to continue to ignore your traps.
Also concentrate heavily on EXCLUSION, and do a careful evaluation of the exterior to determine just how these mice managed to get into this home. Any and all openings (over 1/4 inch wide) must be permanently closed to prevent more mice from entering in the future. It doesn't pay to catch the mice indoors with a lot of hard work just to allow new ones to enter later.
Once you have minimized or removed all alternative foods you can bait your traps with tempting morsels that will be likely to draw the mice to the traps, whether snap traps or glue traps. There are some commercial attractants that seem to be very attractive to mice, or you can use peanut butter, dried fruit, bits of chocolate, nuts, bacon bits, etc. Tie these to the snap trap trigger so the mouse has to tug on it to try to remove it. Tie the traps to something nearby so it cannot be dragged away if the mouse is caught only by a foot. Use LOTS of traps and place them immediately against walls and other likely runways. You might go in with a UV flashlight and turn the lights off inside so you can scan the area to see if you can spot the runways - urine will fluoresce under UV light. The mice are creatures of habit, and will use favored runways repeatedly.
Clean up all clutter. Mice hate changes, and when you disturb the area they are comfortable with it causes them to move around more, increasing the chances of an encounter with your traps. I have no argument with not using bait inside the home, particularly when it is possibly only one or a few mice. Trapping is faster and more certain that you have gotten the rascals, and traps should be checked within a few days at the most.
