Archive for the ‘Pest Questions’ Category

Jul 10, 2012 – Scorpions – Who’s To Blame?

QUESTION:

Friends of ours own a rental property in an area with scorpions. The renter’s neighbors filed a formal complaint with the homeowners’ association that scorpions are “nesting” in the yard and are responsible for the complainants’ problems. First, do scorpions nest? Second, as pest control operators are we legally responsible for any issues that arise from scorpion problems such as medical bills, etc?

ANSWER:

Well…………..a couple of interesting issues here and I am likely to tread very carefully on any advice about legal matters. But, in my opinion if someone (in this case the complaining neighbors) feel so strongly about this and feel their complaints are not resolved they may resort to a lawsuit, and in a lawsuit the attorneys are going to involve as many people as possible in an effort to get as much of an award as possible for their clients. If you are charged with eliminating pest presence on a property then yes, it is very possible that someone is going to claim that you have failed to do what you were contracted to do because those pests continue to be present on that property. And, therefore, valid or not you may become involved and told that you should feel obligated to pay for any losses suffered by people, and then of course those dandy “punitive” damages of pain, suffering, loss of sleep, etc. 

So, here is the question? Are there any scorpions living on the property of your customer? It is very easy for disgruntled neighbors to start pointing fingers at other people when they have problems, and rental properties may be subject to this even more where neighbors may not be pleased by having renters near them. Feel happy that this so far has gone only as high as the HOA, and you need to work with them to resolve it, including educating the HOA folks on scorpions, their danger or lack of danger in your area, and the ways that they can be prevented or eliminated. I believe that you should perform a very thorough inspection of your customer’s property to determine if, indeed, there are any significant numbers of scorpions living there, and personally I believe you also should be given the right to inspect the properties of the complainants to see if they themselves are harboring these terrifying bugs. (That was a bit of sarcasm). 
Who knows but that this may become an opportunity for you to pick up some additional customers if you handle it diplomatically and professionally. Obviously you have people living there who have zero tolerance for scorpions, and perhaps many other bugs, and by educating the folks who live in that area on the arthropods present there and the choices for managing them you may be able to defuse this crisis. (Again, sarcasm). The important thing is to show quickly that you take this seriously, but that you want to handle it properly by ensuring that these beneficial (not sarcasm) arthropods are actually living in and near these homes and that you have found where they are harboring. Scorpions may not “nest” in the sense of social gatherings, but attractive hiding places could have multiple scorpions in them. Be aware that one inspection tool is UV light. At night you can use an ultraviolet flashlight (Univar sells these) to search for the scorpions, which fluoresce when exposed to that light. 
Bottom line as I see it is that you cannot escape some level of involvement if upset people wish to sue for damages. This is just a reality of what our industry does. And, upset people are more likely to believe that they are actually being harmed and will seek medical attention for anything they believe is related to the concern. So, jump in now with your legitimate desire to resolve this amicably for everyone, but showing that the property you are working with is or is not the epicenter of the Great Scorpion Invasion of 2012 is important. 

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Pest QuestionsJuly 12, 2012

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Jul 11, 2012 – Have Carpenter Bees, Will Burrow

QUESTION:

I have a customer that has a new log home but is having trouble with carpenter bees. Is there any kind of preventive pest control for a log home?

ANSWER:

This can be difficult, and unfortunately chemical options are very limited and short lived. In the past there was pretty good success with the use of one of the microencapsulated pyrethroid products that could be applied generally over exterior surfaces during the period when the adult bees were actively seeking nesting sites. But, with the new pyrethroid labeling this kind of overall treatment on the exterior is no longer allowed, and spot applications only can be done, meaning you would have to pick and choose the places on that log home where you felt the bees were most likely to try to initiate their burrowing into the wood, and treat no more than a 2 square foot area around that point. This may still be somewhat helpful, as the bees may be most likely to look for some place where there is some kind of starting point for them, such as a knot hole, wide crack, or a seam between logs. 

Surface finishes such as paint, varnish, etc. will help to “discourage” carpenter bees, which would always prefer an unfinished surface, but this is no guarantee. Treatments with a borate product may be helpful but odds are they will not, as these bees are not eating the wood and borates are toxic only if ingested. There may be some slight ingestion as the bees nip off bits of wood and discard them, but I would not count on it, and some of the borate products are labeled only for use on unfinished wood products, so if this home’s exterior does have some finish coating over the logs you would not be able to use those borate products. 
Bottom line may be that since you cannot prevent the bees from getting to the wood and cannot cover the logs with any impermeable barrier you may have to try the spot treatments with a labeled insecticide such as a microencapsulated material. There don’t seem to be any non-pyrethroid replacements that offer the long residual and labeling for overall treatment. 

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Pest QuestionsJuly 11, 2012

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Jul 8, 2012 – A REALLY Sensitive Site

QUESTION:

I have been asked to recommend or spray for pests on medical marijuana plants. I know people
will be inhaling this by smoking the leaves. Is there a product or products that can be used without harm to the users?

ANSWER:

Well, I suppose I should have known this one was coming someday and been prepared with a snappy response. Personally, I think you absolutely should avoid any involvement here, but for some good reasons. If you do need to back out of it diplomatically you can offer that you are only permitted to use products that are labeled for the site, and I don’t know that I have ever seen “cannabis” on any insecticide labels. Perhaps there are some products out there, but it would be unusual. We can’t even lump this in with general labeling for use on “ornamental” plants, since this plant is being used for a specific purpose. This may be something you could discuss with your local agricultural folks to see if they can suggest a product that would be effective and legal. 

But, one or two things to keep in mind that have to do with your liability. Assuming this truly is “medical” marijuana being grown and sold legally, it will be used by people whose health may already be compromised in some way. Now, a “pesticide” has been added to the mix and any additional health consequences the users experience could point the finger at you, whether or not what you used had anything to do with it. You definitely would not want to use any material that has any residual to it, but only a short-lived contact active ingredient that could be capable of killing the targeted pest and then either removed by washing with water or degraded by itself. 
It also would be important to know what pest problems they are having, as some of these may be resolved without insecticides. Aphids, for example, can often be physically washed off a plant with a spray of water, and reinfestation takes awhile for them to accomplish. 
Now, a quick look does show the internet to be FULL of information on how to control various pest problems on marijuana, but I accept that the internet is not always going to present information that is legal or responsible, so if you choose to browse it do so with a critical mind. Recommendations for insect control center around “natural” plant-derived insecticides as well as insecticidal soap, but again this still could open you up for some liability if someone believes they were harmed by inhaling residues of even these natural materials. After all, we know very well that “natural” does not mean “safe” or “non-toxic”, and in fact many natural chemicals sit high on our lists of the most toxic substances (strychnine, nicotine). In fact, I am slightly amused by the recommendation on one site to use tobacco juice to control mites on marijuana. This seems to be the use of a known carcinogen on a product that later will be inhaled by users. 

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Pest QuestionsJuly 10, 2012

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Jul 9, 2012 – Scabies Is Misunderstood

QUESTION:

During a Bedbug treatment without knowing it I was exposed to itch mites (Scabies). What would be the best protocol to protect myself during and after a bedbug treatment? Also, some background on the itch mite.

ANSWER:

I don’t think you really have anything to worry about here. According to the Centers for Disease Control (CDC), and this is consistent with any other factual websites you can find on Scabies, these mites are “spread by direct, prolonged, skin-to-skin contact with a person who has scabies”. The mites simply do not fall off a person and wander around in a room. However………the CDC goes on to say that it is “possible” for scabies mites to be transferred from an infected person simply with a handshake if that person has the scabies on his hands. Off of the host these mites cannot survive more than a couple of days, so transmission from the general environment would only be possible if you spent time in contact with fabrics or other surfaces that an infected person might have very recently been resting on as well, where the mites may have been dislodged and were still alive when you contacted that surface. 

The most contagious form of scabies is called “Crusted” scabies, or Norwegian Scabies, and it refers to a severe condition where the infected person is particularly prone to infection and may have thousands of the mites on him. He develops severe skin reactions to the mites and in turn may be more likely to shed the mites when contacting surfaces or someone else, such as a handshake when the hands are infected in this manner. Thus, it becomes important to know if your exposure was to this form of the problem. 
I tend to believe that there are far more diagnoses of “scabies” than there really are scabies infections, as many times people have told me they had scabies and it was diagnosed purely by visual observation of rashes or bumps on the skin. A positive diagnosis requires a skin sample that is then examined under a microscope, as these mites burrow under the top layer of the skin. Too many other causes exist for skin rashes and itchy bumps for a simple quick look to be adequate, given the importance of an accurate diagnosis. It also is a consistent message that insecticides should not be sprayed for scabies mites, as they really do little to control any problem and vacuuming and laundering of fabrics (towels, sheets, blankets, clothing, etc.) that might have mites on them are effective. 
The CDC stresses repeatedly that it is only “crusted” scabies that is the real concern with picking up the mites by quick contact with someone or contacting materials in that person’s environment, such as their bed or a chair. I would do a little more to find out from this customer what form of the scabies they have. I would avoid challenging the doctor’s opinion on whether or not it was diagnosed properly, because this will get you nowhere. As so many health professionals do today it might be appropriate to begin your visit to a bed bug job while wearing disposable gloves. This may make that handshake with the customer more impersonal, but hopefully they will understand. It may be appropriate to have a short interview to ask about such concerns as scabies before you get started, and perhaps ease the tension by relating that you knew another technician who was exposed to this and are just making sure. 
But, basic precautions you would take to keep from bringing bed bugs home with you should be adequate for keeping scabies off of you as well. I suppose we have to accept that in these days there are environmental hazards in society, and the seat you choose at the local theater to watch a movie might just have been the seat someone infected with scabies sat in 30 minutes earlier. We can’t lock ourselves in padded rooms but we do what is necessary to monitor our health. 

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Pest QuestionsJuly 09, 2012

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Jul 6, 2012 – Bat Battles

QUESTION:

What time of year can bats be removed in California?

ANSWER:

This is going to depend somewhat on the species of the bat, but in general bats seem to give birth anywhere from May to early July, so definitely right now would not be a good time to exclude the adult bats if you are dealing with a structural infestation. Bats are not always protected animals, but given the benefit they provide when living outside where they belong they should be preserved if at all possible. Excluding the adults while the young are still inside a structure and unable to leave is, obviously, going to result in the death of those young, and beyond just the tragic loss this causes it also leads to inside problems with odors, flies, and other things associated with a dead animal. 

From resources I have it then appears that you cannot count on young bats being able to leave on their own any sooner than at least 6 weeks after they are born. One western species takes 6 weeks to mature to the point it can fly. Another common California species can fly at 3 to 4 weeks but will continue to nurse for another several weeks. Mexican free-tailed bats in California are one of our most common species, and their young are born from June into July, meaning it may not be until late August when you can be fairly certain these young are capable of getting out of that structure on their own. 
So, at least at this date it would be improper to seal up a structure if bats may have been producing offspring within it. From state to state this also is going to vary as bats may breed later in cooler northern regions or sooner in the southern states. Checking with your local University Extension office should provide some good information local to you on this. 

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Pest QuestionsJuly 08, 2012

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Jul 7, 2012 – There’s A New Moth In Town

QUESTION:

I have been treating a lot of webbing clothes moth jobs lately and there seems to be a surge of them for some reason. Any ideas why? There also is a new moth ID’d as a brown house moth. I was told it is a new pest to the area. What can you enlighten me with about this moth? I was told a total fumigation needs to be performed to eradicate this pest.
Thanks – knowledge is a wonderful thing.


ANSWER:

Well Bill, first I’d like to comment on your final thought, and agree that we should never stop learning. This is one reason this industry is so fascinating, as new pests and new ideas come along all the time, and since our business is Customer Service the more we know about our jobs and our industry the better we can Serve the Customer. And, this also allows us to help THEM to understand our business accurately, rather than the load of inaccurate stuff available on the internet and from biased media sources. 

First on the clothes moth. It’s always hard to know why any pest has these surges and declines in their abundance. Outdoors we can take the easy road and blame the weather, but this often is a causal factor when we have excessive rains or drought, a really cold, long winter or a mild one and an early spring. Overwintering bugs are going to react to these changes from “normal”, as are the things they feed on. Indoors it may be harder to find the reason, just as we saw with the difficulty of pinning down the exact reason(s) for the upsurge in Bed Bugs in the last 10 years. Maybe one reason is the same for both, and that could be the reduced use of insecticides indoors, enabling these bugs that might have been killed in the past to survive and reproduce more readily. Perhaps there is some increase in the use of wool fibers for clothing or blankets, or some other materials that these moths would eat, giving them more opportunities to do well indoors. Looking for that cause would be interesting for you. 
The Brown House Moth – Hoffmanophila pseudospretella – has actually been present in North America for probably a hundred years or longer and it is a much more common moth in Europe. In addition to various bits of organic debris that may be eaten it also will feed on stored food products such as dry pet foods, cereals, baking mixes, and grains such as rice or corn. I also may feed on animal products like the typical clothes moths do, so fur, feathers, and woolen materials as well as leftover stuff in animal nests and bird nests. Clearly this is a pretty diverse moth, and this leads to some difficulty in controlling it because finding and dealing with the SOURCE is necessary. I think fumigation would be an extreme measure to go to, but if the most thorough search and inspection you can do does not turn up that source then fumigating the whole structure certainly would kill them.
The problem with fumigation is that it does nothing to eliminate the contributing condition, which is some acceptable food material that these moths have discovered indoors and whose larvae are now busy eating (a.k.a. “recycling”) that material. If that material is still there other moths or carpet beetles will eventually find it too and the problem can start up once more. Try to narrow down where the moths are being found most commonly in the structure and then start with the easy things first – clothes and blankets, stored food products, and then progress to the attic for a look for animal nests. It could be that something died in a wall void or an inaccessible place in the attic and you are not going to be able to remove it, but more often it will be something in a place where it can be found and disposed of. 

 

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Pest QuestionsJuly 07, 2012

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Jul 4, 2012 – Interpreting Pyrethroid Labeling

QUESTION:

I first want to say that I am enjoying the updates to the Master Technician series. Thank you for your vigilance in making this a current resource. Next, my question. With the change in the labeling for synthetic pyrethroids I need to confirm or maybe update my understanding of spot treatments. I have a long history in the industry and in the past I believe it was acceptable to string spot applications side-by-side together, relying on an accepted not-to-exceed percentage of a given surface of the application. At this point, I have a concern with the validity of the spot treatment percentage issue and the demands of the new labeling. Specifically, the limitations for use around the exterior of the home at windows and doorways.
My question is this: Is it currently considered a compliant application if spot treatments are attached side-by-side as long as the areas of the spots combined does not exceed a certain percentage of the given surface? Thank you for your input on this concern.

ANSWER:

Good morning Eddie, and thank you for the compliments. I see you are in Colorado, so I hope you and your home are safe from the awful fires. 

We discussed this “spot” treatment definition in the past, and you and I have the same memory that there was always a limitation on how much of the overall area could be covered with “spots”. The EPA definition of a spot is quite clear – “no individual spot may exceed 2 square feet”. However, with this new pyrethroid labeling I spent quite awhile trying to find out if there was any more to this, and apparently there is not. The dimension of that “spot” are not defined, so I suppose it could be a spot 1 foot wide by 2 feet long, or 6 inches wide by 4 feet long, or to be silly about it a spot 2 inches wide and 12 feet long – all of these add up to 288 square inches, which is 2 square feet. We should use good common sense on this part. 
But, the EPA does not state anything further, so our memory of being told that we could cover “no more than 20%” of an overall surface with spots seems to have been fabricated by someone. However, I have seen, on a couple of product labels, the instruction that no more than a specific percentage of the overall surface could be covered by spots, so for those specific products the label must be followed, and this emphasizes why it is so important to carefully read every word on every product label before we use it. I have talked with state regulators, NPMP specialists, and they have talked with EPA, and the consensus seems to be that there is no mention of how close together we can place the spots or how much of the overall surface can be covered with spots.
So, this unfortunate vagueness leads to problems, because now everyone has the liberty of making their own decision, which probably is not in the spirit of this whole issue and the requirement to place only small spots of pesticide on any surface. I suppose that legally it could be as you suggest, that as long as you interrupt the application of the spray after every 2 square feet is covered you could just put all the spots adjacent and end to end, ultimately ending up with the whole surface covered. Clearly this is not in the spirit of the law on spot treatments, but would just be taking advantage of, perhaps, an oversight by the EPA on this definition (which, by the way, is DECADES old). 
For this reason I always encourage technicians to open a dialogue with their local regulatory agency, and ask those folks exactly how THEY interpret this law in their jurisdiction. They may have a very concise opinion that you must follow. With respect to the new pyrethroid labeling and treatments around doors and windows, the EPA did work with California’s CDPR to state that the application of a “pin stream” around doors and windows, where no true crack or crevice exists, would be defined as a surface treatment with a 1 inch wide band, and that this would be in compliance with the new labeling. EPA states that this kind of treatment would fall within their “exceptions” for either C&C or Spot treatments. 
So, in summary, EPA at this time does NOT address how much overall surface can be treated with spots, but does clearly define a “spot”. Good common sense by our industry has to come into play as well as working with local regulators. All of the updated Pyrethroids information is on PestWeb in our “Industry / PestWeb Features” resource. Nice to talk with you Eddie. 

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Pest QuestionsJuly 06, 2012

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Jul 5, 2012 – Phorids In Mortuaries

QUESTION:

What is the best treatment for reducing gnats and phorid flies in a funeral home/mausoleum?

ANSWER:

Small flies can be really frustrating because of the varied places they may be coming from. I will assume that by “gnats” you may be referring to fungus gnats, since these are fairly common small flies in this kind of situation too, and both fungus gnats and phorids could have a common source or they may be from entirely separate ones. Fungus gnats will be associated with moist settings because of the tiny bits of fungus and molds that may grow in that situation. Phorid flies are usually associated more with something wet and high in organic matter. Occasionally this turns out to be wet soil under a slab where plumbing has ruptured and released sewage into that soil, and of course this is a serious problem that is going to require a plumber and a lot of work to repair. 

However, phorids also breed in more local settings such as drains, places where water has settled and remained, places where garbage may be forgotten and rotting such as improperly cleaned waste receptacles, under refrigerators, in catch pans under potted plants, etc. In a restaurant it might be in a buildup of juices or grease under equipment or in grease traps. In a mausoleum it could be in flower vases or, bluntly, in human cadavers in extreme cases. It could even be an outside source in the landscape, which could also be the case for the fungus gnats. Fungus gnats often will be breeding in the wet soil of potted interior plants, as well as on any growth of fungus or mildew where water leaks are present. 
It is very important to determine where the source is. You can easily kill the adult flies and gnats with a mist of pyrethrum, but they will be replaced quickly by new adult flies emerging from the source of the problem, and insecticides and fogging will generally not affect the larvae that are developing in some hidden place. You may use UV light traps to monitor for these flies, which will be drawn to the UV light and caught on the glue pads, and this may help you to narrow the search for the source. A very careful inspection may also lead you to where you are finding the most flies and ultimately to the source. If you do suspect plumbing problems a qualified plumber should be brought in to inspect the pipes, and this can be done with a camera that moves through the plumbing. 

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Pest QuestionsJuly 05, 2012

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Jul 2, 2012 – Keeping Cells Bed Bug Free

QUESTION:

I wanted to know your suggestion of a product which can be used by maintenance people in a police station in the prisoner cells to kill bed bugs. They wash the cement cell and disinfect for viruses, HIV, etc., however they are asking what they can use to kill bed bugs should they be in the cell before they turn it over to another prisoner. The cell is cement with a stainless sink and stainless toilet only. These workers are not certified to use pesticides.

ANSWER:

Well, this is making me think a little bit. One consideration is that “washing” they do either between each set of inmates in the cells or at least on a regular basis. This may very well wash away much of any insecticide that you apply to surfaces in the cell and possibly even to materials applied into crevices. Another important consideration may be the protocol they have when bringing new prisoners into the facility. I don’t know that they are allowed to bring any personal items in with them so the only way a new inmate could transport bed bugs in would be in infested clothing. This probably already is removed from them, but if not it should be and immediately bagged in a sealed bag and then run through at a minimum a hot dryer cycle. Personal clothing probably is washed and dried, but as we know, heat is a great enemy of bed bugs, and getting the heat above 120 degrees for even 15 minutes kills bugs and any eggs. Keeping bed bugs out in the first place is so much better than trying to dislodge them once they have gotten a foothold. 

Since the effort here is to try to kill any bed bugs that might be in a cell as one prisoner leaves it, and the harborage opportunities for bugs should be fairly limited, you could treat all cracks and crevices and holes with pyrethrum, such as Kicker or Pyreth-It or other liquid pyrethrums. This is often included by PMP’s in their residual treatments and seems to offer a good result. The active ingredient is not going to last at all, but hopefully will kill any bugs on contact. Since this is only a police stations jail it suggests that the stay is short for anyone brought in and beds and bedding are not present. This simplifies the application a great deal. Another effort should be to thoroughly caulk and seal as many cracks and crevices as possible in the cell, taking away the potential hiding places of the bugs and keeping them more exposed and visible. 
The use of some pyrethrum product should not require anyone to be certified, but this is still a sensitive setting with people who are not happy to be there, and any belief on their part that they are being exposed to any “pesticide” could trigger some legal issues. The use of “natural” plant based insecticides may help to disarm that concern. Fortunately we have a LOT of plant-based insecticides now, many of which contain oils of clove, peppermint, soybean, thyme, rosemary, and other essential plant oils such as the Essentria product line (formerly EcoExempt). These should very effectively kill bed bugs on contact and even leave behind the rather pleasant odors of their active ingredients, rather than any “chemical” smell. Because of the exempt status of many of them they could generally be applied to the surfaces in a cell. 
However, I would discuss the biology and nature of bed bugs with the folks who manage the jail there so they know how bed bugs might be able to enter the facility, and stress that having clothing removed quickly and sealed for treatment through a dryer would be an important way to prevent the bugs from getting started inside. 

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Pest QuestionsJuly 04, 2012

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Jul 3, 2012 – LEED Buildings and PMP’s

QUESTION:

Can you explain the role PCOs play in providing service to businesses that participate in the LEED program? Do PCOs become LEED certified or can any company perform service (for credit to the client) as long as that service adheres to LEED guidelines? Lastly, where can these guidelines be found? Thank you for such a great site!

ANSWER:

The LEED program stands for Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design and it is offered by a private corporation called the United States Green Building Council, or USGBC. Their purpose is to certify “Green” buildings, whether commercial or residential, and the complete details on their program can be found on their website at www.usgbc.org. 

It is only the building that becomes LEED certified as a green building, and people do NOT become LEED certified. However, a PMP can have a very important role to play for the owners of that building in their effort to compile enough “points” to reach the higher levels of certification, and in this role the PMP can become a “Green Associate” by taking an exam that tests his knowledge on this program. Having this title adds credibility to that PMP that he is familiar with the standards and the needs of a building owner seeking certification and helps get the foot in the door to be a consultant in the area of pest management in that building. In reality any company could be involved, but having some title in hand is bound to help put you above the rest. 
Within the various areas of a LEED certification a building and its owners must take the presence of pests and their filthy excretions and other health hazards into account. These are well known to be unhealthy for employees to be exposed to, so preventing the presence of insect and rodent and bird pests is important. The overall program also takes into account such things as energy efficiency, recycling, discreet use of resources, etc., and as they accomplish the goals in each area they are given “points”. One point is awarded in the area of “Indoor and Environmental Quality”, which includes prevention of pest problems. Four points are available in the area of “Innovations in Operation” which may include efficient landscape watering, pest exclusion, and other areas of environmental performance not specifically mandated by the LEED program. The intelligent PMP can help to establish how these innovations are done for a building and help gain those valuable points for the owner. 
Every “point” is cherished by the owner seeking LEED certification at the highest level possible – Gold and Platinum being the two highest levels, and a couple of additional points might mean the difference between one or the other. 

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Pest QuestionsJuly 03, 2012

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