Archive for the ‘Pest Questions’ Category

Oct 3, 2012 – Correcting Some Misunderstandings?

QUESTION:

I have just started to service a restaurant with relatively minor pest issues, but they will not allow me to service when there is any food present, giving me only a small window of opportunity for when I can perform the service. I wanted to get some expert advice on this before pleading my case. I feel that I am experienced and trained enough to know how to
treat a restaurant without contaminating any food. My company’s standard is to stick mostly to IPM procedures, including inspection, small amounts of boric acid dust, and monitors in most cases. We typically do not use liquids or aerosols and definitely do not fog.

ANSWER:

Ultimately the customer is going to get their way, but I wonder if there are some issues here that you can dig out and discuss with this customer. Perhaps they have had some bad experiences with previous pest control companies and that feeling is carrying over to you and what you will provide. It may simply be a misunderstanding on their part of what you actually do for your program. People can pick up impressions of service industries and have a hard time letting them go. In this case perhaps this customer has just heard or read horror stories about bad pest control services and now expects that this is the normal way our industry operates. It sounds like you, however, are on the right track, and a heart to heart discussion with the customer should bring out what the issues are and help him to understand why you are a step above the previous companies. 

However, it may very well be that they do not want pest control being performed while their customers are present in this restaurant or while the kitchen is busy and in operation. Since their pest issues are minor so far they may prefer that their clientele don’t have to watch someone doing pest control operations while they dine, suggesting to these customers that some awful bugs must be present or they wouldn’t need to have you there. It may just be that having you working there while the restaurant is open for business would be perceived as an inconvenience for either the customers or the employees. If so, perhaps you can work out a compromise that allows you to do certain operations out of sight of the customers in the dining areas, and other procedures when the restaurant is closed for business. I can understand why they would not want you doing even careful inspections, which would include the dining areas, while patrons are sitting at the tables watching. It could be bad for the ambience. 
Now, by “food present” how far are they carrying it? If that means that the only time you would be permitted to do your work is when the restaurant is actually shut down or shutting down, that is more of a problem. Are they requiring that you stay out until after dining hours are over with and the employees have finished all of the final washing and cleanup that they do? This may be something that you can work on to come to that compromise that works for both of you. Perhaps there is some misunderstanding about the nature of the products that you may use. When they think of a “dust” they may perceive it being blown all over the place, perhaps, once again, due to some bad previous experience. Perhaps they think our liquid and aerosol products are “fumigants” or “highly volatile”, and explaining the nature of the materials could clear that up. Perhaps they believe that exposed food is absolutely going to be contaminated because insecticide vapors will be drifting all over the facility as you apply them. Perhaps they do not understand insect bait products and how they can be applied with zero exposure to anyone or anything outside the crevice or void you apply them into. 
Hopefully I am on track here and a more detailed discussion with the customer will reveal what his concerns really are and allow you to clear them up. But, again, the customer has the right to dictate the terms, and if it simply does not work for you then this may be a client that would lose you money in the long run and should not be taken on. 

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Pest QuestionsOctober 03, 2012

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Sep 28, 2012 – Crabgrass "Control"?

QUESTION:

I was wondering if there is anything new or different advice for problems with the dreaded
Crabgrass. I haven’t tried any Pre-M because of the timing factor for one (not down at the right time and you have wasted your money) and I have seen stunted roots on others that have had Pre-M used. The Crabgrass is in St. Augustine in central Florida.


ANSWER:

There probably is not anything strikingly new for crabgrass, and as one university fact sheet on this weed states it, “you cannot eradicate crabgrass and to expect a crabgrass-free lawn is unrealistic”. These weeds produce copious numbers of seeds that can lay dormant in the soil for years, finally germinating when the conditions are appropriate. Typically this is when the soil temperature in the top 1/4 inch reaches about 60 degrees and stays there for several days. The seeds also could blow in from neighboring infested sites, so it will be a continual battle. For a homeowner it also pays to spend some time on a nice afternoon hand pulling the weeds, as they generally will not grow back from roots. Also coach the homeowner on proper watering and mowing, which, if possible, would be a deep watering every few days rather than a light daily watering, which encourages crabgrass and weakens the turf. 

Pre-emergent herbicides still may be the best choice, as they can kill the plant as it emerges from the seed and before it becomes visible or certainly well before it can produce more seeds. Some pre-emergents are root-absorbed and some shoot-absorbed, so perhaps changing to a different pre-emergent from the pendimethalin would be appropriate. Making sure the turf is healthy prior to the use of the herbicide will also help to prevent damage to the turf. A turf with healthy, deep roots is going to be less affected by herbicides that remain near the soil surface, and watering prior to the herbicide application is recommended. 
One herbicide on the list of possibilities is Dimension. According to the manufacturer it can be applied as much as 8 weeks prior to germination of the crabgrass seeds, so your window of opportunity is much wider. The active ingredient, dithiopyr, is also either pre- or post-emergent in activity, and it can kill crabgrass weeds that have already sprouted and are visible, but have no more than 5 leaves on the new plant. The a.i. is absorbed both by roots and foliage but is most active in the meristem area of the plant. It is labeled for use on St. Augustine turf, so this may be an alternative you could try. 

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Pest QuestionsOctober 02, 2012

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Sep 29, 2012 – Unwanted Spiders

QUESTION:

I have in my own house problems with Daddy long legs. I find them often in all the rooms? How do I control these pesky pests?

ANSWER:

There are two kinds of spiders that we call daddy long legs (DLL). One is the “true” DLL and it is not a true spider, but instead is a related arachnid called a Harvestman. This one is not venomous and does not make webs, but only wanders around feeding on live or dead insects. It has a fatter body than the other kind, which is the daddy long legs “spider”, more properly referred to as a Cellar Spider. This one is the messier kind, with dense webs that gather a lot of dust and left over pieces of bugs, and probably is the one most responsible for the “cob webs” inside homes and under the eaves outside. I suspect this is the DLL you are referring to as it is the more common kind indoors. And, by the way, the MYTH that the DLL has the most toxic venom of all spiders is just that, a myth. Apparently the DLL spider’s venom is no more or less toxic than any other typical spider and it is not even capable of biting people. It’s fangs are just too small. 

It is amazing how rapidly the DLL occupies areas around a home, but they do so for one reason – they find food. These spiders feed on tiny flying insects like gnats and mosquitoes and other bugs that are active around a home, particularly around exterior lighting. So, here is one way to reduce the numbers of spiders around the outside of the home. Turn off the lights at night where they are not needed, and consider changing the bulbs to yellow bulbs for lights that are needed for safety or security. Yellow is much less attractive than white and FAR less attractive than mercury vapor lights, just in case those are in place. If so, those could be changed to sodium halide, a more orange color but just as bright as mercury vapor. Managing lighting means less spiders on the outside which means less spiders finding the opportunity to get inside. 
But, some will still make it, and I am a strong advocate of using a vacuum cleaner to remove the spiders and their webs on the inside of my own home. I only need to do this occasionally, and the careful use of the vacuum completely removes the unsightly, dirty web without smearing it all over the wall. I think it is appropriate always to look the non-toxic but still effective ways to control arthropod pests on the inside, and a vacuum is just as much a tool for professional pest technicians as are the chemicals. Even on the outside a vacuum may be the perfect tool for removing both spiders and webs, particularly on 1-story structures. Most companies now also use the “Webster” style brushes to remove the webs following each service, as this removes the visible evidence of a pest that would otherwise continue to annoy a homeowner. 
All spiders are extremely susceptible to Synthetic Pyrethroids, so these can be used both to kill and perhaps to repel the spiders from treated surfaces. They can be used around the exterior of the foundation, around windows and doors, and along other “pathways” where the spiders are likely to travel to get inside. Be very careful now in the U.S. to adhere to the new restrictions on the use of pyrethroids on exterior surfaces, but under the eaves they still can be used as a general application. Most of them also can be used indoors, but it just seems so much faster to remove the spiders and webs with a vacuum. And, spraying a web with a liquid spray is likely to paste that webbing onto the surface where it is far more difficult to remove later. We now have the new Suspend Polyzone that, according to the manufacturer, will provide up to 90 days of effective residual even on outside surfaces. 
Finally, take a strong look at exclusion, both for your own home and for customers. Spiders need openings to get inside, other than coming in through open doors and windows or being carried inside on materials brought in from outside. The use of weather stripping, caulking, and other exclusion materials is a permanent way to keep all kinds of bugs from moving into the home. 

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Pest QuestionsOctober 02, 2012

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Sep 30, 2012 – Picking the Right Courses

QUESTION:

I am looking for CEU for Cat 7D Food Processing in NJ. I need 4 credits.

ANSWER:

I normally would not post my response to this more personal question, but it is an important one that we regularly have problems with. First of all, on our Master Technician online training on PestWeb we have quite a few courses that are approved for Category 7D in New Jersey, so you should have no problem fulfilling your CE needs in this area with our training resource. 

The important part of this that is appropriate for everyone is that you can find out exactly which courses are approved in YOUR state and see the license categories they are approved for, and you can find this before you take the course. We have too many people who select a course without confirming its approval status first, and then are disappointed or very upset with us when they find out after the fact that it did not meet their needs. 
So, we ask that you always select the course you wish to take in Master Technician by selecting the tab “State CEU Info” at the top, and then select your state. This brings up a list of “Steps” that are very important instructions from your state licensing agency, followed by the complete list of courses approved by that state. Next to each course number will be the column showing exactly which license categories that course is approved for in that state. When you find the one you wish to take just click on the course name and it opens up for you. 
Your completed courses are all logged in your personal database, found in the “My History” tab, so you can verify that you have not taken a course previously and you can print your own Certificate of Completion from here at any time. If you are licensed by more than one agency in or multiple states be sure you have entered that license information in the “My License Info” section and then print out a separate Certificate for each license. 
We love the response we have with our online training but always hope to minimize the problems that can occur when it is not taken correctly. 

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Pest QuestionsOctober 02, 2012

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Sep 26, 2012 – Cockroaches and Boric Acid?

QUESTION:

What do you think about using boric acid on German cockroaches?



ANSWER:

Boric acid is an excellent active ingredient to use for German roaches and it is the active in a great many excellent products, bait products in particular. Many of the gel, granular, and station baits use boric acid. There also are several brand names of dry dust products that are boric acid, and these can be dusted into voids where the roaches hide or even applied to exposed surfaces where the roaches will be active, allowing the dust to get onto the roach. 

What is important to recognize with boric acid is that it is ONLY a stomach poison. It must be ingested by the insect to cause a toxic effect. It absolutely is not a contact insecticide and will have no effect on an insect pest if it only rests on the exoskeleton. Thus, the insect must have some means for ingesting the boric acid, and many pests do not – bed bugs are the prime example. With their sucking mouth they have not ability to ingest a dust, so using boric acid dusts within wall voids for bed bugs is not going to have any effect on them. 
Once ingested the actual mode of action of boric acid may still not be totally understood, but in some manner it disrupts the ability of the insect to digest its food, and the insect eventually starves to death. This takes some time to complete, so boric acid is definitely not a fast acting material. However, it is very effective on those pest insects that can ingest it and so far no resistance has been seen by any kinds of insects. Boric acid is also a mineral and thus an Inorganic chemical and it lasts virtually forever. For bait products it will last well beyond the point that the bait is no longer palatable to the roach, and for dust products it will last and be effective as long as it remains dry. It is non-repellent and not detected by the insect as it ingests the material. As a dust product it works on roaches because of their grooming habits, whereby they use their mouthparts to clean off their legs and antennae and if some of the dust is on those areas the roach will ingest it. 
The internet is full of good information as well as awful information, and boric acid suffers badly from dis-information on many websites. Anti-pesticide groups and “natural pest control groups” like to recommend boric acid as an “alternative to toxic pesticides”, but of course boric acid IS a pesticide and IS toxic. Some websites state it kills by desiccation, similar to silica gel and diatomaceous earth dusts, and this is completely false. Some websites state is is “safe for use around children” and “non-toxic to people” and both of these are not only false, they are dangerous comments that will lead homeowners to misuse the materials and place them where children or pets could contact and eat them. 
Boric acid is a great active ingredient with some limitations and some misconceptions, but it is excellent on roaches. 

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Pest QuestionsSeptember 28, 2012

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Sep 27, 2012 – Pesticides And The Weather

QUESTION:

How do organic and inorganic pesticides react to temperature and relative humidity?


ANSWER:

I’m going to fish around a little bit here with the word “organic”, but from your question I am assuming you are referring to the chemical make up of pesticides rather than their use for Organic Food Products. These are, of course, two very different topics and ones that likely cause some confusion. Organic chemicals are those that contain carbon in their molecules, and these comprise the vast majority of the pesticides in use in pest management. They often are synthetic molecules that were created in a lab, but also include the great many natural pesticides that are derived from plants, such as pyrethrum and essential plant oils. Organic pesticides also include the pyrethroids, organophosphates, carbamates, and the many new families of pesticides that are synthetically created. 

Inorganic pesticides are those that are found naturally but usually are mineral in nature. These include active ingredients such as boric acid, diatomaceous earth, silica gel, aluminum phosphide, copper compounds, sulfur, and others. Because of the mineral nature of many of them they are very long lasting, and are essentially unaffected by environmental conditions such as heat or UV light. The boric acid placed within a wall or along a crevice in a bait product will last for many years as long is it is not somehow covered or tied up by other dusts or grease. Boric acid dust products are effective for as long as they stay dry, so I suppose that in a region with very high humidity this could affect the dust over time, perhaps causing it to cake or clump so that it no longer can adhere to a passing insect. 
But, for all of those organic pesticides, whether synthetic or extracted from plants, heat, water, UV light, and alkalinity are the enemies. Some families of chemistry are far more susceptible to these effects than others. Organophosphates like diazinon and malathion were quite susceptible, and in direct sunlight, in highly alkaline water, or on very hot days the active ingredients could break down rapidly to molecules that no longer killed the pest insects. Sometimes this could be a benefit, as with the aerial spraying of malathion for Med Fly. The malathion degraded so rapidly that within just a couple of days the treated areas had, essentially, no toxic malathion remaining on the leaves to worry homeowners. But, the rapid loss of the active ingredient also meant that future pests were not going to be affected, so repeated applications were necessary. The chlordane that protected homes from termites for 35+ years has been replaced by active ingredients that may provide protection for 5 years or less, meaning new applications are needed to maintain that protection. 
Synthetic pyrethroids, which include so many of our current insecticides, are less affected by temperature, water, pH, and UV light, so they will last longer when exposed to the elements but still degrade relatively fast in the environment. Again, this is a double edged sword. Rapid degradation means a lower chance of off-site movement but also a loss of control of new pests that enter a treated area. Temperature definitely has a direct effect, and the hotter it is the faster the molecules break apart. Relative humidity is probably less of an issue, but since water is one of the factors I suppose a dry environment would be more likely to sustain the molecule than one with high levels of moisture in the air. 

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Pest QuestionsSeptember 27, 2012

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Sep 24, 2012 – It Pays To Work For A Profit

QUESTION:

I realize this question may vary due to location and product pricing, but how do you determine a fair price for pest control? I have a request to provide preventive pest control (mainly for roaches) in an apartment building. There are 56 apartments total with 1, 2, & 3 bedroom units. At this point there are no pest infestations. I’ve heard other companies are charging from $2 per apt up to $35 per apt.

ANSWER:

A few things strike me as worth discussing here, and the first would be that reported $2 per unit price that some competitors may be charging at this time. Let’s consider that the service industry in the U.S., in general, considers $100 per hour to be a standard charge for their time and services. This is going to vary up and down a bit, but let’s use that price for convenience, meaning that the company charging that price has determined that it is necessary for their field technicians to make $100 per hour in order to keep their company running and to make a profit. This determination is not easy, but it must take into account ALL of your fixed costs (vehicles, insurance, rent, salaries, material costs, etc.) You have to find out exactly how much your company has in expenses so that you will know how much above those expenses will be needed to be profitable, and if you do not make a profit you cannot stay in business. 

THAT is how you determine what price you need to charge a customer, along with careful evaluation of that potential account to tell you how much time you will have to spend correcting their problems. Since $2 is 1/50th of $100 it would mean that any company similar in size and expenses to yours would be able to have a technician in a unit for about 72 seconds, and clearly that accomplishes nothing. Hopefully the potential client also looks at those kinds of low-ballers and realizes that there is something wrong, and passes on that offer. Even the $35 per unit price means that, at $100 per hour, a technician could only be profitable if he spent no more than 20 minutes in that unit, and you have to ask if 20 minutes is sufficient to properly inspect each unit and then treat as needed to manage whatever pest is discovered. These kinds of fees are banking on the hope that nearly all apartments are going to be pest free and will stay that way on their own. 
Another red flag in your question is the one that at this point this complex has no pest infestations. I certainly would not want to take someone else’s word on that, and would so much prefer to discover on my own exactly what the pest status is for each and every unit in this complex before signing any contracts that lock me into a price and a time frame. For all you know at this point several of the units may have minor (or major) bed bug problems that the management either does not know about or is keeping to themselves until they sign on a pest control company for the cheapest price possible. Since you say that at this point you only have a request to provide preventive service I assume that you have not yet done a thorough inspection of every apartment to see what really is going on. 
While you do need to take into account local competitive pressures, you should not be so determined to get this account that you end up regretting it shortly afterward. You must make a profit, and that will be based on how much time you end up spending each week or month at this account, once you determine what the problems really are. If you under price you either lose money every time you go out or you end up cutting corners to make money but do not provide the needed time and service. 
So, begin with a evaluation of your own company to you know exactly what your hourly “break even” point is on expenses. Then you will know how much you need to charge per hour to be profitable. Then, before signing a contract with any new account determine for yourself what really is going to be needed to manage the pest problems there to the satisfaction of that account, and for apartments it could mean satisfying each and every tenant. Put together a well written contract that addresses exactly what you will do and how often, and by all means put Bed Bugs as a completely separate contract from all other pests. 

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Pest QuestionsSeptember 26, 2012

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Sep 25, 2012 – Comparing Products

QUESTION:

What is the main difference between Onslaught Microencapsulated and Onslaught Fast Cap? The label for Fastcap says the target pests are spiders and scorpions, but we like the Microencapsulated for fleas. How will it compare for fleas? Should we switch or stay with the original, and why?
Thank you

ANSWER:

Onslaught Fast Cap is still a microencapsulated formulation, so if that is a major consideration then either product still fits the bill. The difference is in the active ingredients. The original Onslaught contains only the pyrethroid esfenvalerate, which is a perfectly good active. But, according to the manufacturer MGK, they felt there was a need for the long residual and effectiveness of the microencapsulated pyrethroid along with a faster knockdown, and they specifically target spiders and scorpions in their product features. To do this they added another short-lived pyrethroid called prallethrin as well as the synergist PBO, which you find in nearly all pyrethrum formulations. These last two may be free materials within the Fast Cap concentrate so that they are available immediately to contact and affect the targeted pest, giving that rapid knockdown. The kill of the pest is then accomplished for sure with the esfenvalerate. 

The label uses, according to MGK, remain very much the same for both Onslaught and Fast Cap. For fleas it is still one of the few products that allows overall treatment of carpeted surfaces, and this can be an important use for fleas indoors. But, for many pests getting that very quick (within 15 minutes) knockdown may not be necessary, as it is not for general flea control where it is the larvae that you are targeting. But, there still is that sense among many of your customers that there should not be anything still moving on their property when you finish the job and leave, so the spider hanging in the web that is not clearly either dead or terribly distressed will make that customer believe you did not do the job. Simply knowing that it is “going to” die may not be enough. 
I would suspect that with the additional active ingredients the cost to use Fast Cap may be slightly higher than for original Onslaught, but I could be wrong. You’ll need to do that calculation yourself, but even if it is slightly higher that difference would be insignificant in the overall cost of doing the work. If the rapid knockdown is a benefit for some customers or some kinds of pests then that would be a good reason for adding Fast Cap to the arsenal. Specifically with respect to flea control, I think that Onslaught original, along with the addition of an IGR to the spray mix, should be perfectly acceptable as long as the customer understands their role in effective flea control and follows your instructions. This means the needed vacuuming and elimination of fleas on the pets. 

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Pest QuestionsSeptember 25, 2012

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Sep 22, 2012 – Killing the Big Ones

QUESTION:

What works best for smoky brown roaches?

ANSWER:

We could lump smoky brown and American roaches together here, as both of them may be dealt with in a similar manner. They commonly live outdoors and enter structures on their own, unlike the German roach that most often will enter homes and businesses by hitch hiking within some infested packaging. Outdoors the large roaches are scavengers, feeding on many kinds of organic materials that they can find. This is the normal role of roaches in nature – they are decomposers of leftover materials. Inside a home it should be possible to eliminate all available foods for cockroaches, and this is the role of sanitation. Roaches are like any other animal and need food, water, and harborage in order to survive. Lacking any one of these things they will either die or leave.

While it may be difficult to eliminate all possible foods on the outside of a structure the effort still can reduce the level of food available. Garbage cans can be kept clean, with properly fitted lids, and with plastic bags inside to contain and seal the garbage. Pet foods should not remain available outdoors. Harborage opportunities can be limited by removing all unnecessary clutter from the soil and stacking other things neatly off the soil on racks or boards, but not directly in contact with the dirt. Piles of yard debris should be removed regularly and the soil kept dry. Thick vegetation needs to be pruned up off the soil or removed, and branches touching the structure must be trimmed away. These steps reduce the attraction of a property and thus reduce the numbers of roaches that can survive there. It also minimizes the number of roaches that live close to the structure. Now, a careful inspection should also reveal many openings that would allow these roaches to enter the structure, and every one of these that can be permanently closed means less roaches getting inside, and you can focus insecticide applications around those remaining entry points. 
Within a structure dusts within walls work well, since roaches may hide within the walls during the day. Boric acid dust is good as are contact dusts like Tempo and DeltaDust. Liquid insecticides can be applied around travel areas and directly into likely harborage points, as this then puts the roach and the active ingredient together for the longest time. Microencapsulated products like Demand, CyKick, and others have the advantages of lasting longer, being less affected by moisture, and of attaching to the roach as it moves over the surface. 
Granular bait products also seem to be very acceptable to the larger roaches, and these may be applied into wall voids using a duster such as the Centrobulb, or used according to the Label outdoors in and around likely harborage points and travel routes. There also are many kinds of insect bait stations available if the bait needs to be kept in a more controlled manner, and these may be placed around the perimeter of the structure. The roaches may often be hiding outdoors in storm drains, under man-hole covers, under sewer vent covers, or in water meter boxes. These may be treated using a properly labeled contact insecticide, including some dusts. Be very careful, though, to read the Label to be sure the product is labeled for that site. 

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Pest QuestionsSeptember 24, 2012

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Sep 20, 2012 – A Sticky Choice

QUESTION:

Can Gold Stick be used for sewer flies?

ANSWER:

Sewer flies probably could refer to several kinds of filth flies, but let’s go with the common choice that you are referring to drain flies, also called moth flies in the family Psychodidae. The best way to control almost any problem with flies of any kind is to address the source of the problem, rather than trying to eliminate them by catching all the adult flies. Sticky fly traps like the Gold Stick are excellent for catching adult flies now and then, meaning yes, many kinds of flies will be attracted to the bright color of the tube and be captured on it. But, in a sense this is only harvesting some adult flies and more will be produced very rapidly from the breeding source. 

In the case of drain flies that source is going to be some kind of very wet setting where a buildup of organic material is present. The larvae feed on this buildup that might be found in floor and sink drains, in sewers, in cracks and crevices on or at the edges of floors where filth accumulates, in A/C units, under refrigerators or washing machines, in bird baths and stagnant water outside, in sump pumps and grease traps, and nearly any place else that water and other wet organic matter can accumulate. In other words, there is no easy solution to the elimination of drain flies and to only use sticky traps for the adults is not going to be successful. 
However, these flies and others, such as Phorids and fungus gnats, present a great opportunity for you to add some needed services for your customer. You need to begin with a very thorough inspection inside and outside to determine what the source and sources are. You then make recommendations as appropriate for physically eliminating that breeding environment. This may be draining bird baths and plant catch basins and maintaining them better. It may be repairing leaks in equipment where water constantly drips out. It may be better washing of floors and allowing them to dry properly. It may be better maintenance of potted plants to allow the soil to dry or to cover the soil to add a barrier to the flies. But, it also includes the regular use of drain cleaners to eliminate the buildup of scum that the flies rely on. This can be done by you and it is an important service. 
So, sure, sticky traps and UV light traps can attract and capture most kinds of adult flies, but they will not control the situation. You have to go after the unnecessary breeding sites where the larvae are found. 

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Pest QuestionsSeptember 22, 2012

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